5 Minute Read

Pass…FurkaPass

If there is one singular pass that is the most famous from this region, it’s this one. Known for being featured in the James Bond movie Goldfinger, it’s a beautiful, meandering climb at an average 7% when approaching from Andermatt. It’s also the highest-elevation climb of the region at 2429 meters (7967 feet), outside of the Nufenenpass.

If leaving from Andermatt, the nearby ski town, you first travel along a straight section of fairly fast-traveled road where wind can definitely set you back a bit. If this is your first ride at elevation, you may start to notice some early fatigue setting in (I know I did!). The road quickly passes an old steam train line at Realp that travels under the mountain, while the main road heads up quickly and evenly, giving you better and better views out over the valley eastward towards the towns of Hospental and Andermatt.

Along the way, make sure to stop by the James Bond lookout (someone put up a “James Bond St” road sign) and be mindful of the many (often fancy) cars doing the same touring you’re doing. It’s quite popular on weekends, so be visible of course and be ready for some close passes, more particularly towards the top where the road seems to feel narrower. Luckily the whole valley is quite open, so you can hear cars coming up from below well before they reach you.

If you’re coming back down this way, or simply want some “alpine groceries” (butter, yogurt, milk, those kinds of things), I’d definitely make sure to stop at the alp-shop that’s near this section of the climb. It’s a small hut that seems to run on an “on your honor” system, leaving cash or paying for items remotely without a specific shopkeeper on site. I would have absolutely bought something, had I needed it! Bring a musette! You can find them on their Instagram here.

Towards the top you’ll start to see snow packed on the side of the road, so make sure to have an extra layer on you even if the sun is out! Descending down the other side if quite open, fast, and fun, but is less steep by comparison, closer to 5.8% in case you plan to come back up the same direction back to Andermatt.

No, Not “that” Hotel

I mention this separately because I didn’t quite realize this the day I climbed this side of the Furkapass. The famous hotel that everyone knows from the Furkapass is actually not the first one you come across when climbing from Andermatt. You actually pass the Hotel Tiefenbach about halfway up towards the top, which coincidentally, is an actual hotel you can stay in.

Helpful Links

• Furkapass Google Map Location
• Strava Segment from Andermatt
• Strava Segment from Gletsch (other direction)

My Thoughts

Personally, this felt more difficult for me than I had expected it to be. It was my first real climb of the high mountains on this particular trip and my pacing may have been off. But I stopped enough for pictures that I was able to take it easy and enjoy the valley as I got higher and higher. Some of the road’s turns provided amazing views, but don’t underestimate them if you feel a bit unsettled by heights!

Note that the famous Belvedere Hotel is on the other (west) side of the Furkapass, so if you want to stop for a picture, keep that in mind. You’ll see it coming on the way down with plenty of time to spare (it’s actually the same view you’ll notice in the very first few seconds of the Goldfinger clip above!).

If you dismount and walk up the stairs towards the gift shop, you can actually pop out on to a balcony that will afford you views out towards the Rhône Glacier. As long as you don’t go through the turnstile out back, you won’t have to pay the entrance fee. It’s a beautiful spot that actually showcases a lot of really interesting history around global climate change. Definitely check it out if you have a moment!

Where to Go from Here

Once descending down the far side of the Furkapass into the town of Gletsch, I can recommend at least 4 options to go:

• head back up the way you came
• head up the Grimselpass, descend down the other side, then go up the backside of the Sustenpass back towards Göschenen and eventually Andermatt
• head down to Oberwald, climb the Nufenenpass, descend down the other side, then back up the cobbled Gotthardpass from Airolo towards Andermatt
• take a shortcut, head down to the Oberwald train station and take the train back to Hospental, riding back to Andermatt from there.

There are obviously more options to consider here if you’re willing to ride further towards another train station and find another way back to Andermatt via transit. For example, from the base of the Grimselpass, you could feasibly ride up and continue northward into Innertkirchen and Meiringen, both of which are just east of Lake Brienz, potentially connecting you back towards the Interlaken area.

• Transit going from Lake Brienz to Andermatt is actually a bit circuitous if considering only trains, but a nice commuter bus is usually available (it’s what we took to get to Andermatt initially), driving you back up and over the Sustenpass to Andermatt.

Check the map and the SBB mobile app for what you’d like to consider, read my other blog about transit in Switzerland, and remember that most fast-traveling trains take you to Göschenen directly before requiring you to connect via an older line up the mountain further to Andermatt. It’s actually an amazing ride through a valley of waterfalls, a glacial-fed river, and old stone bridges, like something out of Lord of the Rings!